My mother, my abuela, and me. Moron de la Frontera, Spain. 1980
I read an article in Saveur the other day that made me smile. It was a piece by Elissa Altman titled "The Smuggler," and it tells the story of how her father became a threat to Canadian national security thanks to his mother's habit of sneaking contraband cuisine into his suitcase.
The author's grandmother and my grandmother, mi abuela, would have gotten along like peas and carrots.
My mother was born and raised in southern Spain. She married an American stationed at the military base in her hometown and came to live here in 1961. She left behind her family and everything she knew to settle into military life with her husband and two toddlers in Cordell, Oklahoma. She also left behind a country's cuisine that couldn't be bought or replicated in her new home. This was before the internet, before the explosion of interest in all foods foreign, before we could just pick up a phone or a catalog or click a mouse and make virtually anything we want appear in a few days time.
Every few years, my abuela would make the trip from Spain to the States to visit. I'm sure she brought me trinkets and gifts from Spain, but I can't say that I remember any of those things specifically. What I do remember is that she brought chorizo. Wonderful, delicious, salty and very-much-not-allowed-across-borders chorizo.
My abuela might have been five feet tall in heels, and probably weighed 90 pounds soaking wet, but she always managed to smuggle in a hefty foot-long chorizo. My favorite story is the one where she slid it into her coat sleeve. Now, chorizo is a pork product, so if you can imagine someone walking around with a couple of pounds of, say, bacon stuffed into their clothing? I imagine you'd notice. Hips don't lie and neither do noses. But who's going to feel up the nice little old lady who doesn't speak any English? No one wants to be that guy. A particularly brave customs agent did call her bluff once, and she simply shrugged and told him it was a long flight. What if she wanted a sandwich? Off they sent her, chorizo and all.
I still love chorizo, and my kids do, too. And yet, it tasted better when it only appeared once in a blue moon. It tasted best when it was smuggled with love.
Amo says
Nothing say love like a pig smuggled across the borders.
I LOVE this story.
And miss you!
Katy says
Have you had the Spanish Chorizo from The Goose? Picked some up this weekend (nice timing on this post) and it was AMAZING on a pizza. Not sure how it would compare with the original (with additional curing in your abuela’s coatsleeve) — but worth a try!
Kathy Friend says
Geez, I feel like a total bad smuggler – I was just going to try to get some trail mix out of Russia and got all guilty and pitched it before we got to the airport. Never considered the coat sleeve thing!
Anu says
Awe this is just too cute of a story. Seriously security should worry about the “sweet” little old ladies. My mother-in-law tiny lady barely 4nhalf feet tall tried to explain to security why she absolutely needed to bring the roots of the plant (with the soil mind you) into the country. So she could grow this indian vegetable, not availble in the US.
Angie Six says
Oooh! I didnt know they sold chorizo at Goose. You can always find the soft, cooking variety around, but the hard, slicing variety is a little trickier to find. I usually just swipe some from my mom or order it from La Tienda. Maybe a trip to the Goose is in order!
Angie
Angie Six says
I can totally picture your mother-in-law, acting all innocent. I guess things are a littlemore strict in the customs line after 9-11.
Angie